Day1 15 April 2022
The trip began on the 15 April 2022, we departed Caboolture on a 3000 km plus journey to Darwin. Commenced at home in Caboolture and travelled through Kilcoy, Yarraman and Cooyar. First stop was Warra a small town with a population of 250 people. Warra is now a pastoral town with a pub, Memorial Hall and a lovely park with some historical buildings. Warra had a Coal Mine that was opened by the Qld government in 1914- it closed in 1919 after numerous issues with water inundation. When the mine closed it had lost the government over 38000 pounds ( $67000)
After lunch back on the road and stopped in Miles for a short break near the Miles Information Centre and Museum.
Travelled onto Roma arriving about 1530. There are a lot of people in Roma this weekend for the Roma Easter Country Festival, they have concerts, a rodeo and muster activities over the weekend. Pretty packed with people throughout the town.
Day 2 & 3 16th & 17th April 2022
Roma was extremely busy due to the Easter in the Outback Festival so we left the crowd and had a quick look around the markets in the Main Street then left to keep moving towards our next destination Charleville.
On the Warrego highway heading north west first stop was Muckadilla a small township with a free camp - toilets and showers and a nice shady spot.
Last stop before Charleville was lunch at Sommariva, a rest stop on the Warrego Highway about 20 mins from Charleville
Main Street of Charleville
Short walk around the ANZAC Memorial in Charleville at night, very effective lighting.
Not a lot happening today in Charleville, Easter Sunday, as most people are resting or eating their Easter eggs. We decided to have a look at the WW11 Secret Base and the Cosmos Centre, which were both worth the visit.
Day 4 18th April
Drive from Charleville to Windorah was uneventful, drive through Cooladdie, all there was in town was a sign coming in a pub and then a sign saying thanks for visiting. Did not stop in Quilpie which was a bigger town as it is the base of the shire, headed towards Windorah and stopped at the Euromanga turnoff for a break and tested out the Drone. Back on the road and headed west.
Arrived in Windorah filled the tank petrol was $2.20 a litre. Went to the pub where we were supposed to stay. Had tried ringing and left several messages still no wander. Pub was all locked up some other people also arrived to stay they rang and the answer was we open at 5 this was about 3 pm. So we drove round to the other accommodation Coopers Cabins looked great new cabins etc but had a sign closed until further notice. So off to the Caravan park with Chris and Jan and set up the tent for the night.
Lots of Apostle birds making lots of noise when we arrived but luckily they were quiet overnight. Full moon otherwise we would have done some night photography. Will have to wait for another week or so before there is no moon to spoil the shots.
Day 5 19th April
Long trip on mostly dirt to Birdsville. Very very flat out here with the only occasional elevation is a ridge of sand dunes covered in a little vegetation
Stopped at the turn off to Birdsville Development Road, for a cuppa and to read the signs about the region. Each stop usually has a large sign with how to identify the snakes of the region, does not make you feel easy about walking around anywhere in the surrounding areas, not that there is anything to see, just lots and lots of flat ground with rocks and sand.
Stopped at the Betoota Pub - the only thing in Betoota. A very old pub, they have a few special days and there is a set up around the pub to cater etc for larger crows. When we arrived there were about 6, 4WD in the carpark, it seems a lot of people visit on their way through to Birdsville. lots of old displays and I found a new pair of pluggas for Phillip - steel capped so he could wear them at work ( Ha ha ) Continued to Birdsville on the dirt road and the closer we got the more sand dunes were visible.
Day 6 21st April
Three nights in Birdsville in a cabin at the large caravan park. Everything is dirt but the weather is mild about 28c during the day and about 12-15c overnight.
First morning had a lazy start after the long drive the day before. Looked around town, stopped at the bakery and had our first coffee since leaving home. Not bad of course Stephen had a pie but not a camel one just a normal meat pie, we also had a great vanilla slice, will have to return to the bakery while we are here.
Went over to the pub but it was closed, you could hear people inside bit it did not have when it opened, all hours are at the owners discretion. Got a few good photos of the pub and had a look at the memorials near the airport. Drove around town and there are a few blocks of land for sale but no prices.
Drove out to Big Red later in the afternoon. Big Red is a large sand dune on the edge of the Simpson Dessert. 4wd enthusiasts enjoy the challenge of driving up the dune to the top. A lot of people come across the dessert from South Australia for their visit to Birdsville, saw a few of them later at the caravan park. We are lucky we are here now not before the larger crowds that come during the season from April to September. Big Red is closed for any access between November and March during the wet season.
Our vision of the top is by looking at the drone footage of up over the dune. Jan and Annette walked up the side of the road over the dune, just so they could say they went up big Red. Stayed for sunset but it was too windy for the drone to do any further footage, but got a few good photos with the cameras and the phones.
Back to town and had a meal at the Birdsville Hotel. Lots of memorabilia, a lot of people have their hats put up on the roof but ours are new so we are not leaving them. Pub has been there since 1900, burnt down in 1979 but was rebuilt and is thriving. The weekend before Easter they held the Races which were postponed because of COVID. Staff said they had about 5000 people in town, now we know why the caravan park is so large and there is a large group of toilet and shower blocks at the Info Centre.
Day 7 21 April 2022
Lazy day today. Car to repack and work out the trip for tomorrow. Lunch at the Birdsville Bakery and another great coffee don’t know when will be our next one. Went out to Pelican point after lunch and after the recent rains the water is rather muddy. No Pelicans about but did spend some time watching the kestrels trying to find fish in the muddy Billabong.
Later on today ……. we are heading out to check out Little Red.
Headed out to have a look at little red just before dusk.
Drove along the Birdsville Simpson Desert National Park Road 8 kms inside the Simpson Desert to Little Red. When we arrived at Little Red, there was no one around, so we had the whole area for our selves. Put the drone up and got a good look at both sides of the Little and Big Red Dunes, these are typical of the red sand dunes throughout the Simpson Desert.
Day 8 22 April 2022
Up and packed up, filled the tank and then on the Eyre Development Rd heading to Boulia via Bedourie. First stop the Ancient Waddie Trees that were 12 km out of Birdsville. Seems this is the only area that is left where these trees grow. Another 80 kms down the highway was Cacoory Station Ruins which were abandoned in early 20th century due to drought.
Cuttaburra Crossing had quite a bit of water in it and thus there was abundant birds, Flacons, Kestrels, Crows and lots and lots of other small birds all swirling around the area. This is also in an outback station as there were cows sitting under the trees nearby.
Stopped in Bedourie for lunch, in a local Anzac Park with a couple of the local birds for company. Bedourie was getting the park ready for the Anzac Day celebrations.
Next stop was a small town called Dajarra. It had a war memorial to a local man who was the only one from the area to volunteer for WWI. On his return from war he settled in the Birdsville area with his wife and worked as a station hand while raising 10 children.
Local indigenous men from the area were taken for the Light Horse regiments as they had great horsemanship skills.
There was also a local area with powered sites and amenities for travellers. Dajarra was once the worlds largest railway site for the transport of cattle from western Qld and the NT. Now it is just a small town with a couple of houses and the local memorial and camping site.
Stayed in Boulia overnight, small town with a supermarket, post office, police station, school and a few other shops including a Grime Centre ( Laundromat )
Day 9 23 April 2022
Fuelled up at the local station and had a great cup of coffee, and a bacon and egg roll for Stephen. On the way out of town there was a goat and a minature horse tied up on the footpath eating and then in the grassed area in the middle of the main road some chicken pecking at the grass.
Cloudy today and we might get a little rain for the next few days. Stopped for a toilet break and found a frog in the toilet again, this is the second time this has happened to Annette. Driving along the Eyre Development Road through lots of Gibber Plains - small iron coloured rock with very limited vegetation, it just looks barren for kms while driving north to Mt Isa. Also crossed the Tropic of Capricorn.
Arrived in Mt Isa and found that we did not have a booking for the cabin at the Caravan Park where Chris and Jan were booked into. Seems Annette had mucked up the booking, they had no cabins so we got accommodation at the Burke and Wills Motel which was across the road from the Buffs Club, which is the biggest club in town. Shopping for a few essential items as we will not be near a big town for the next 11 days or so. Everyone and their dog were at the shops and most of the shelves were bare. Seems the shops are not open for the next 2 days as they close on Sundays and the Anzac Day holiday on the Monday. Did a bit of washing when Annette finally got to the machines, some other hotel guests were hogging them. We had dinner at the Buffs and walked across the road to our motel in the rain afterwards.
Day 10 24th April 2022
Slow start to the day, up and breakfast and then went to the local lookout overlooking the town. Drove out to Lake Moondarra which is a huge lake about 16 kms out of town on the road towards Camooweal. Did a little drone footage, really well developed recreational area for the locals, camping areas, water skiing and fishing. Lovely picnic area near the dam wall where you would usually see sea gulls grasping for scraps there were peacocks trying to get the picnickers to feed them. Back to the room to have some lunch and download photos from the camera, drone and Go Pro while we have good internet.
Tomorrow off to Normanton starting early at 0700
Day 11 25 April 2022 - Anzac Day
Each small town that we passed had some type of War Memorial and they all celebrated Anzac Day.
Long trip from Mt Isa, scenery is different with low scrub, not many animals as it was extremely overcast raining on and off. Saw some Brolgas and a few small kangaroos, but the most amazing thing we saw was a large black Eagle who just sat there and looked at us going past.
Short stop at the Burke and Wills Roadhouse for a cuppa across the road.
Arrived in Normanton and went straight to the accommodation. Gulf land Motel and Caravan Park. Quite warm in Normanton despite the heavy cloud cover, getting more humid.
Day 12. 26 April 2022
Drove around town a little and visited the local laundromat and had a coffee while waiting. Then a small trip to the grocery store- prices were high but we are very remote. Most expensive thing was bottled water.
Visited the railway station but did not get a ride on the train they were getting it ready for their weekly trip to Croydon tomorrow.
Dinner at the Central Hotel- Barra Salad and Chips - huge meal. Local indigenous population has shifted from the Central Hotel to the Purple Pub, so atmosphere of the place was different. Pub is starting to look a little rundown outside but inside was neat and tidy.
Day 13. 27 April 2022
Off to Karumba this afternoon to see the sunset over the gulf. More info and photos to follow, but here is a sample of Karumba.😁
Outside waiting for the sun to go down at the Sunset Bar.
After a drive around Karumba and Karumba Point area we went back to the Sunset Tavern to watch the evening sunset. Sat under the trees with a drink and watched the Red Tailed Black Cockatoo feeding and occasionally dropping large nuts on the unsuspecting patrons below
Day 14. 28 April 2022
Left Normanton today back to Cloncurry, we were supposed to go to Lawn Hill Gorge but the roads are effected by flood water so it is back through Cloncurry and Mt Isa to head on the Barkly Highway towards Darwin.
On the Burke Development Road we stopped for a large group of Red tailed Black Cockatoos, which were throughout the area.
The scenery is changing again and the sky has opened up with some lovely cloud cover. The weather is still hot and humid though.
A quick stop at a rest stop opposite a house for sale, obviously there is not much option for the property as it is.
Day 15 29 April 2022
Left Cloncurry and went to visit Chinamans Dam, this is the water source for Cloncurry. Last time we were here the dam was empty, now it it full again and welcoming back some wildlife.
Next stop was Mary Kathleen township and mine. Mary Kathleen was a mine that was opened in 1958 by Rio Tinto to mine Uranium. The township was auctioned off after the mine was closed for the second time in 1982. All that is left are some cement slabs and small rock walls. It is now a private property that allows visitors to the old township and mine. A lot of campers take advantage of the free camp area.
Final track into Mt Isa for some shopping and to get ready for the beginning of the NT part of the trip.
Tomorrow leaving early as there is a long straight drive to Barkly Homestead.
Day 16. 30th April 22
Up and off early for the trip to Camooweal and then Barkly Homestead. This is the beginning of the long drives with open spaces and never ending flat plains. Just past Camooweal is the beginning of the drive into the Northern Territory.
Stopped at the border for the typical photo opportunity and to put the drone up. Really really windy while there and then off to Barkly Homestead which was a 250 km drive watching the same scenery very flat windswept with only a few random trees
Stopped at Barkly Homestead for the night had dinner with the Malones in the caravan as our room was really tiny a bed against the wall and a small fridge but it had its own bathroom.
Day 17 1 may 22
Breakfast at the roadhouse and while the Malones did their final pack up Stephen put the drone up to take a few pictures of the remote roadhouse.
Short tea stop on the Tablelands Highway and then onto the next stop just past Banks Bank Station, where we had to fight the flys while drinking our cuppas.
Renner Springs stop for lunch. Heritage listed place for 1887 when the station was founded. Greeted by 2 geese who came out of the petrol station shop and then joined us for lunch under the shady trees.
Last stop for the day was Daly Waters Pub. Very unusual pub with a collection of bras and peoples id’s which are plastered all over the walls and the roof. When we checked in the new girl on the counter could not find our cabin for the night. We were given a free drink while waiting for her to get direction to our cabin. I found it while moving the car and came back to the bar where Stephen was waiting for another drink and then dinner.
Day 18 2nd May 22
Breakfast done and meeting the Malone’s for a coffee before leaving for Cape Crawford. The pubs caravan park was emptying out from the weekends Rodeo and Campdraft which ended last evening. While having a coffee ( not very good ) a local came down the street and joined us outside the bar for a drink
Then off to Heartbreak Hotel at Cape Crawford. This area was picked rather then Booroola which is know for its Barramundi Fishing.
Day 19 3 May 22
Later start today as only going to Borroloola for a look around and then back to Caranbirini Conservations Reserve on the way back. Borroloola is a typical aboriginal town with not much there that looks in any good condition. Needed to use the loo and there were some at the local post office area, that were closed and no key. We enquired at the shop and were told to go to another shop up the road. Jan and I walked up there and they were locked also, when we asked about a key we were told that they were not working. I had to ask where would find a loo, and was told at the airport. So off we go again to the airport, looking for a terminal and all we found was a runway with fencing and a few planes on the side. There was a toilet block that was rather worse for wear but at least this one was unlocked.
We then drove around to King Ash Bay as this is where lots of people go for fishing barramundi. Had a cuppa in the park and then off again back to Cape Crawford.
Stopped off at Caranbirini Conservation Reserve, which was a quiet shady areas with several walks. Found a bird watching hut overlooking the billabong and Stephen put up the drone to look at the Lost City which is a collection of sandstone spires known as 'Lost City' formations
On the way back to Cape Crawford we passed the McArthur River Mine which is one of the worlds largest lead and zinc mines. We also saw a donkey on the side of the road. It has become a bit of fun trying to see different types of fauna during the trip, this was our first donkey.
There was also an Emu at the Heartbreak Hotel who we christened Ralf as well as a lot of cattle that just grazed around the hotel and caravan park grounds and could be seen wandering around between the caravans and cabin rooms. There was also a dog who looked a little like Anna who was named Xena. She was quite noisy at first but by the third day she stopped barking at us when we spoke to her.
Day 20 4 May 22
Three days here was too long but we did not know what it was like till we got there. Did nothing today slept in and read a book and stayed out of the 38c heat. Had dinner with the Malone’s in the caravan as the AC was on and I did not have to cook in the heat on the verandah.
Day 21 5 May 22
Back to Daly Waters Pub for the night as there is no where close enough to stay after leaving Cape Crawford. It was a little cooler this morning while packing up but then it warmed up again.
5555kms travelled since leaving home, today at 1255 while on the road. We went straight to the pub for drinks in the afternoon, while waiting for 6 pm when you could order dinner. When I went to order dinner their eftpos machine went down all over the pub, which they said was nothing unusual for the poor internet at Daly Waters. Lucky we had some cash. Dinner was a limited menu as some of the chefs were off sick with COVID after the big Rodeo the weekend before. Still had a nice salad and chicken schnitzel.
Day 22 6 May 22
Coffee and breakfast at the Pub before a quick look through Tim’s JunkYard a collection of cars and motorbikes and a whole lot of other junk on display for visitors.
Off to Katherine today, first stop Larrimah at the Pink Panther Pub, which was closed. When Stephen was there in 2012 it was a thriving business but now it was just a dry place with a few things to look at but it is looking very tired. Stephen put the drone up for a look around.
Stopped at the Manbulloo Station Caravan Park. It was a nice shady park but the cabin was a little worse for wear and needed an upgrade. The bed was the smallest double I have slept on and most of the night Stephen spent the night with his feet hanging over the edge of the bed.
Day 23 7 May 22
Going to Katherine Gorge this afternoon so a slow start for the day. Took a walk to the Katherine River which was at the edge of the caravan park. There are sign not to swim there due to Crocodiles which may come up river during the wet season. There were no signs of any croc’s at all freshwater or salty’s. Stephen put the drone up for a look at the river.
At 2 pm we commenced a 2 hour tour of the Katherine Gorge at Nitmiluk National Park. There was a 400m walk to the boat then through the first gorge with commentary from the National Park Ranger about the forming of the gorge etc. The scenery was great and the commentary was comprehensive. There was another 500 m walk up from the first gorge to the second and for further travel along the river system, luckily the weather was not too hot with a cooler breeze near the water, I would hate to do it in the peak of summer. There are tours through the gorges all year round but during the wet season the waters are a lot higher and you would miss a lot of the gorge itself.
Day 24. 8 May 22 Mothers Day
Pack up and travel to Darwin today. First stop was Pine Creek for a cuppa. Pine Creek is off the road and is centred around being an old Railway Town where Gold was discovered in 1872.
Next stop was Adelaide River for a cuppa and break. Nice little town on the side of the Stuart highway. Historically significant as it was where they crossed the Adelaide River while constructing the Overland Telegraph line which was completed in 1872.
Arrived at Tumbling Waters Holiday Park which will be our home for the next 5 nights while we explore Darwin area. Had dinner at the Troppo Resturant at the holiday park. The Resturant was out of doors it was really hot and humid and then the mozzies arrived. So we ate our meal and did not hang around for any more drinks. The meals were good.
The villa was really below expectations for all the great reviews it had. It was a 2 bedroom villa with the tiniest bedroom I have seen, the mattress on the bed was thin and lumpy. There was a lounge daybed that also had a very thin mattress which was uncomfortable, the shower cubical was also small at least the shower water pressure was good. There was no dining table and chairs unless you used the ones on the veranda, while being eaten alive by the mozzies. the windows were dirty and overall it was a bad experience. Jan and Chris had a nice spot in the caravan park but there was lots of space and they crowded everyone in together.
After three sleepless nights we packed up and then booked a room at a hotel in Darwin for another three nights so we got a good nights sleep. we left on Wednesday morning and got an email from them on Sunday as to why we had not checked in for the booking we made.
Day 25 9th May 22
Off to the big smoke after all the remote areas that we have been through. Palmerston was the big shopping centre, getting there was 30 mins of driving in the bush then all of a sudden you were in suburbia again.
Went into Darwin for a walk around in the afternoon but it was 35c and getting very humid so only did the Bicentennial Park which was along the waterfront
Day 26 10th May 22
Trip today to Jabiru in Kakadu National Park. Stopped at a truck stop for a cuppa and to put the drone up. Lots of very large mozzies so we did not stay long.
Over the South Adelaide River which had a large high bridge to accommodate the river during the wet season.
Went to the Barwon Information centre. Not many visitors and pretty poor exhibit. The whole place looked a little dated and needed a good upgrade. Into Jabiru what a dump. The town centre was full of graffiti and most of the shops had seen better days. The whole of the Kakadu National Park was a let down. It might be good if you were on a helicopter tour but there is limited things to see it you are walking and driving.
On the way back we stopped at the Mary River park and did some drone work. On the way back from the loo we were visited by a local wallaby who took her time watching Annette and did not move off till she got really close.
Day 27 11th May 22
Stephen and Chris went fishing at Barramundi Adventures for 2 hours this morning. Both said it was a poor experience, Chris did finally catch a Barrumundi which he then had to pay to take home with him and he had to clean and fillet himself. After lunch went into Darwin to stay at he Rydges Hotel for three nights before starting for home.
Chris and Jan came into town for a nice Italian meal for dinner. Found a nice coffee shop just below the hotel in the arcade and had the best coffee we have had since leaving home 27 days ago.
Day 28 12th May 22
Off for a day trip to Litchfield National Park. First stop was Wangi Falls, beautiful falls that have a swimming hole at the base of the falls but the pool was not open yet for the season. Jan and Annette did a short walk to the lookout while Stephen and Chris took some lovely shots of the falls with camera and drone. Next we went to the Magnetic Termite Mounds- they did not have anything on those we saw in northern Qld.
Last stop was a tavern in Batchelor for a drink to get out of the heat before returning back to Darwin for the night. Had a Chinese meal with left overs that could be eaten later on the road.
Day 29 13th May 22
Last day in Darwin. Annette and Jan went to the hairdressers together for the first time in 36 years of friendship. Later met Stephen and Chris for lunch at an American themed Resturant in Darwin. After lunch we said goodbye to the Malone’s as they will continue on their holiday after spending another 5 days in Darwin.
Went back to the room and packed up and booked for travel towards home. We had not done this before as there was no internet coverage while in the NT at most stops. Even Darwin had poor 4G coverage, they don’t even have 5G yet.
Day 30 14th May 22
Started trip home today heading for Daly Waters Pub for the night. So far travelled 7700kms to date. First stop in Katherine for fuel.
Then stopped at Cutta Burra Caves for lunch - a lot of the food was put in the fridge used as a freezer and the yoghurt was frozen, this was a nice lunch.
Last stop for the trip was for an Iced Frappe at Mataranka - the rodeo was in town today but there were not many on the road.
Hit 8000 kms just before stopping for the night at Daly Waters for the third time during this trip. The caravan park was full of Grey Nomads so we were lucky we booked a room. Put the AC on and stayed in the room rather then fighting for room at the bar. Filled the car at the Daily Waters Service station with petrol only $2.07 a litre which is a good price for the more remote area.
Day 31 15th May 22
left Daly Waters at 0730 as we had a big day on the road getting to Camooweal as Barkly Homestead was full and we could not get a room.
First stop at Elliott for fuel. Greeted by peacocks which had the run of the service station.
Passed a wide load a few times today as they passed us when we stopped for a break. Stopped at Three Ways for fuel and a cuppa, luckily the wide load did not follow us onto the Barkly Highway
stopped at Barkly homestead for lunch and then onto Qld with our stop for the night at Camooweal Caravan Park attached to the Puma Service Station.
Cooked up scrambled eggs but they tasted of Eucalyptus that we cleaned the fridge with, so they went in the bin and we had corn on the cob that had been frozen in the freezer fridge and we boiled up in the Jet Boil. Room is clean and big enough we will have to wait and see what the bed is like.